My kids are early risers and even on holiday in Belgrade they were awake to see the sun come up over the Danube.
Then it was off to find coffee and breakfast and experience the famous Balkan cafe culture.
Sitting for 1 to 2 hours over a single cup of coffee is completely normal and encouraged. Waiters will never rush you out. Smoking inside cafes and bars remains very common across Serbia. If you prefer smoke-free environments, opt for outdoor terrace seating.
Here is the translation of the text on the sign in the image:
- Top text: "Smoking allowed" (ДОЗВОЉЕНО ПУШЕЊЕ)
- Bottom text: "Republic of Serbia / Ministry of Health" (РЕПУБЛИКА СРБИЈА / МИНИСТАРСТВО ЗДРАВЉА)
The sign above the entrance reads "Шешир мој" (Šešir moj) in Cyrillic script, which translates from Serbian as "My Hat". This well-known traditional bohemian restaurant (kafana) is located on Skadarska street in Belgrade, Serbia.
3 eggs, bacon, mushrooms, cheese, tomatoes and a small ramekin of ajvar- a delicious roasted red pepper and eggplant spread.
Waiters in restaurants were always men wearing black pants and white shirts. We asked Gemini why there were no waitresses
During the Yugoslav era (and dating back to Austro-Hungarian influences), becoming a konobar (waiter) required attending a dedicated vocational high school. Waiting tables was viewed as a respected, lifelong career with union backing, formal attire, and a steady middle-class income—a track that historically skewed heavily male.
Traditional Serbian dining revolves around long, late-night meals, heavy platters, and plenty of rakija and wine. Culturally, managing boisterous late-night tables in a kafana was long considered "men's work" due to both the physical demands and old-school social norms around women working late around alcohol.
All photos are from my family albums, unless credited otherwise.
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