Amongst the Tombs
The Panteón de San Fernando is one of the oldest preserved graveyards in CDMX. It opened its gates in 1832 and stopped accepting guests in 1872
Although the grim reaper has no preference twixt rich or poor, this graveyard was when opened, entitled the "Pantheon of Illustrious Men"
If graveyards can become famous and sought after this one surely did. Small. well looked after it was highly prized by the hoi-poloi of 19th C Mexico City.
Due to its ever increasing popularity, burial costs rose significantly and only the most affluent and richest of society good afford to chuck the cadavers in the ground and build everlasting monuments above them
General Ignacio Zaragoza, known as the hero of the Battle of Puebla, here the Mexican army defeated the elite French army. he died in 1862 of typhoid. In 1976, His bones were dug up and moved to the city of Peubla, where he was buried and a monument erected in his honour.
Due to diminishing space in the cemetery, there are a vast number of Niches in the walls, simple poignant and commemorative.
Here is an anomaly, the dancer who died aged 50yrs in a tragic accident in France never ever visited Mexico, but a platonic lover, a former president of Mexico, Plutarco Elías Calles, was so smitten he had a personal niche installed for her (her bones lie in a tomb in Paris), Ah presidential power and brown envelopes across an oak table aside, Isadora was actually born in 1877 and died in 1927. It is in the detail fella in the detail.
Merchant and diplomat whose claim to fame was that in 1850 he installed Mexico's first electronic telegraph service. Died of pneumonia 1853
Benito Juarez Garcia, 26th and first indigenous Zapotec president of Mexico and his pre-deceased wife.
So here in San Fernando the tombs of politicians, military men, governors and personalities of former times.
Celebrations of Death
From the 29th of October to the 2nd November, Mexico in particular goes into over drive in celebration of death.
October 31, is the eve of Dia de Muertos, or, noche de brujas (night of the witches).
I was lucky to be here in the graveyard to witness and enjoy:
RECITAL DE DIA DE MUERTOS
Sitting for a short while amongst those that knew what was going on watching the ensemble prepare for their musical interlude before giving up my seat to someone who deserved to be here. I wandered back out into the sunshine. Good timing!!
EL CAMINO HACIA EL MICTLAN: ICONOS DE LOS PUEBLOS EN FESTEJO DE DIA DE MUERTOS
During the week long celebrations of the Day of the Dead, Panteón de San Fernando has a number of activities going on, performers wander through the cemetery telling tales and acting out the history of some of those who lie here.
A small but appreciative crowd present to enjoy the festivities
The performers all willing to take time out and allow me to snap them.
LIGHTS: CAMERA: ACTION.
I have not the foggiest idea what was happening.
Enjoyable nonetheless, the rapturous applause and a whooping and a hollering was richly deserved. Enough noise to wake the dead.
Now that is how I want my coffin to look like when they burn my bones at the local crematorium.
