Along the Silk Route

Few places in Central Asia capture the intersection of natural landscape and ancient heritage quite like southern Kazakhstan. On a recent trip to Turkistan and the nearby medieval site of Sauren, I had the opportunity to spend time doing geologic fieldwork in the surrounding terrain while immersing myself in one of the region’s greatest cultural treasures. I think it is generally well know that I love my job. With the job comes the opportunity to travel in the remote corners of the world where most common people don't get to travel. I was doing a week long geological field work in the Bolshoi-Karataou mountains in the southernmost Kazakhstan, while staying in Turkistan. You really need to look at the map to understand where it is!

Google map link of Turkistan, Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi

Fieldwork in the Shadow of the Steppe

Well, there is little shadow in the Soviet Steppe :) That is the inside joke anyways! The landscape surrounding Turkistan and Sauren presents a fascinating environment for field observation. Exploring the local terrain and exposure around Sauren—a city that once thrived along the Silk Road—offers a vivid look at the arid sedimentary processes and regional geo-archaeological context that defined human settlement here for centuries.

Dating back in historical records to at least the 10th century, Sauren (or Sauran) was once the largest medieval city in what is now Kazakhstan. Strategically positioned along the northern branch of the Silk Road, it served as a crucial economic, political, and cultural node connecting the Eurasian steppes with Transoxiana and beyond.

As empires waxed and waned, Sauran proved remarkably resilient:

The Mongol Era: Unlike neighboring Otrar—which was famously razed to the ground by Genghis Khan—Sauran managed to survive and later became the capital of the Mongol White Horde.

Timurid Fortification: Under Tamerlane (Timur) and his successors, the city transformed into an imposing military fortress. Its massive mudbrick and clay outer walls, stretching over two kilometers, were ringed by a deep defensive moat and guarded by formidable double-towered gates.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sawran_(Kazakhstan)

Walking between the ruined walls, what immediately strikes a geologist or engineer is how the city conquered its harsh, dry environment. Sauran’s inhabitants mastered a sophisticated underground water supply and irrigation network known as karez systems. By channeling groundwater from distant foothills via subterranean aqueducts, they maintained an oasis that sustained agriculture, livestock, and urban life right on the edge of the Kyzylkum desert.

The Masterpiece: Khoja Ahmed Yasawi Mausoleum

Moving from the wind-swept ruins of Sauren back into Turkistan proper brings you face-to-face with the undeniable jewel of the region: the Mausoleum of Khoja Ahmed Yasawi. Built during the reign of Timur in the late 14th century, it remains one of the largest and best-preserved examples of Timurid architecture anywhere in the world.

The Grand Dome: Holding court over the town, the massive tiled dome features vibrant, geometric turquoise-and-cobalt glaze work that has endured for centuries. Walking up to the uncompleted front portal (pishtaq) gives you an immediate sense of the ambitious scale Timur envisioned before his death in 1405 halted construction.

Stepping inside the cool, vaulted interior, the space feels deeply reverent and alive. Unlike heavily commercialized historical sites, the mausoleum remains an active sanctuary. Inside, local religious tourists and pilgrims gather in quiet prayer, honoring the 12th-century Sufi saint and scholar whose teachings shaped the region. Observing their devotion beneath the intricate domes gives the majestic brick and tilework a living, spiritual heartbeat.

Twilight at Top Tobe: Quiet Evenings in Turkistan

After long days in the field under the vast Silk Road skies, evenings in Turkistan take on a remarkably serene rhythm.

Directly across from the Mausoleum, near the Hampton Inn, sits the Top Tobe rooftop bar. Sitting up there as the heat of the day fades offers an unmatched viewpoint. Looking out across the illuminated turquoise domes and intricate tilework against the desert dusk—with quiet streets down below—provides a peaceful moment to reflect on the day's field observations and the deep layers of history built into this landscape.

So, is travel in this part of the dangerous? No, not particularly. Not anything different that today's Paris perhaps. I would argue Paris is not particularly pleasant right now. If you ask me, I say Kazakhstan is much safer relatively speaking.