Happy new month to everyone in diyhub 🎉✨ May this new month bring fresh ideas, steady hands, happy customers, and overflowing creativity.
Today, I will be sharing the full details of the cutting and sewing process of this beautiful two layer ankara gown and headband. 💕
Materials 3 yards Ankara 2½ yards lining Lace net (for the bodice) Matching thread, zipper
Drafting & Cutting
- Bodice (Lace + Lining) Fold your lace net into two and place the bodice pattern on fold. Shoulder: mark 7 inches (half of 14). Neckline: width 2½ inches; depth 3 inches front, 1½ inches back. Bust line: measure down 7 inches from shoulder. Apply bust: 27 ÷ 4 = 6¾ + 1 inch ease = 7¾ inches. Waist: 23 ÷ 4 = 5¾ + 1 inch ease = 6¾ inches. Waist length: 14 inches. Shape slight curve from bust to waist. Add 1 inch seam allowance all round.
Cut same for lining.
Note: The bodice is fitted but not tight.
- Sleeve Fold fabric. Round sleeve: 10 ÷ 2 = 5 inches. Sleeve length: 10 inches. Draw a short fitted sleeve cap. Add 1 inch allowance and cut 2.
3. Two-Layer Skirt (Flare + Gather)
(A) Outer Flare Layer Fold and lining into four. Use waist radius formula: Waist ÷ 6.28 = 23 ÷ 6.28 ≈ 3.7 inches. Mark 4 inches for ease. From that point, measure full length (40 - 14 bodice = 26 inches). Cut a full circle flare.
(B) Inner Gathered Ankara Layer Cut wide rectangles: Length = 26 inches Width = 3 times waist (about 69 inches total for fullness). Run gathering stitches at the top.
Sewing Process
Step 1: Sew Bodice Join front and back lace at the shoulder. Repeat with lining. Attach lace to lining (right sides facing), sew neckline, turn neatly. Topstitch lightly. Join side seams.
Step 2: Attach Sleeve Sew sleeve seams first. Fix sleeves into armhole. Ensure neat fitting—not puffed.
Step 3: Prepare Skirt Layers Attached lining to main fabric of the flare (leave small opening if no zipper).
Gather the second Ankara layer evenly to match waist size.
Step 4: Join Skirt to Bodice First attach the flare to the bodice waist. Then place the gathered Ankara on top and sew together. This creates the two-layer.
Step 5: Zipper & Finishing Insert zipper at the back. Ensure it runs through bodice into skirt neatly. Hem Ankara gather layer neatly and Press everything well.
Cutting Headband: 22" × 5" Bow pieces (3): Big: 12" × 8" Medium: 10" × 7" Small: 8" × 6" Center strip: 4" × 2"
Sewing Sew headband tube, turn and press. Sew each bow piece, turn out and press. Pleat the middle of each piece. Stack (big → medium → small) and stitch together. Wrap center strip around and sew. Attach bow to headband.
Thanks so much for your time, support, comment and encouragement as it is always my pleasure to share my creativities with you. Until my next post, do have a great and lovely day
