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This design is a simple, elegant straight gown with a round neckline, fitted body, dramatic pleated sleeve cuffs, and a pleated flare at the knee. It can be recreated neatly with two and a half trouser of material, depending on the fabric width and how efficiently you arrange your pattern pieces. Let's get started to the processing
Measurements Needed Shoulder: 18" Bust: 42" Waist: 38" Waist length: 17" Empire line: 26" Hip: 47" Knee length: 37" Sleeve length: 18" Round sleeve: 14"/12" Full length: 50"
STEP 1: Draft the Front Bodice Fold your fabric into two with the right sides facing each other. Start with the front part. Mark the shoulder using 18 ÷ 2 = 9". Add your neckline. For a neckline similar to the picture, make the neckline about 3½" wide and 4" deep. Curve the neckline neatly. From the shoulder, measure down 17" for the waistline. Then measure 26" from the shoulder for the empire-line/upper hip reference, and continue to 37" for the knee line.
For the bust width, use 42 ÷ 4 = 10½" and add about 1" ease, giving approximately 11½". Mark this across the bust line. For the waist, use 38 ÷ 4 = 9½", then add ease according to how fitted you want the dress. For the hip, calculate 47 ÷ 4 = 11¾", adding approximately 1" ease.
Join bust, waist and hip points smoothly to create the straight gown shape. Add 1" seam allowance.
STEP 2: Back Bodice Use the front as a guide for the back, but make the back neckline shallower, around 1½" deep. Mark the same shoulder, bust, waist, hip, knee and full-length measurements. add zipper allowance and Cut the back on fold.
✂️ STEP 3: Make the Pleated Lower Flare The beautiful pleated flare beginning around the knee.
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Since your knee length is 37" and full length is 50", approximately 13" for the lower pleated.
Cut a long strip for the lower flare. The strip should be wider than the bottom circumference of the dress, because you will create multiple pleats. The bottom gown measures about 48", cut the flare strip considerably wider, because how full i want the pleats. Fold equal pleats throughout the strip, press each pleat and stitch or baste them in place. Attach the pleated strip around the knee line, then finish the lower edge neatly.
STEP 4: Cut the Sleeves For the sleeve, use your 18" sleeve length. Divide the 14" round sleeve measurement by 2 = 7" and the 12" lower round by 2 = 6" when drafting on folded fabric. Draft the sleeve cap from the armhole and gradually reduce it toward the wrist. Add seam allowance before cutting. The sleeve fitted through the upper arm and then has a wide, pleated cuff around the lower sleeve.
STEP 5: Make the Pleated Sleeve Cuffs Cut two long strips for the sleeve flares. Make each strip wide enough to produce several pleats. Create equal box pleats around each strip. Press the pleats properly, then attach the pleated to the sleeve around the lower arm area.
For the bow detail shown on the sides, cut two small fabric strips, sew them into narrow tubes, turn them right side out and tie them into bows. Attach one bow to each sleeve cuff.
STEP 7: Assemble the Dress Sew the shoulder seams first, then join the sides of the dress.
Sew the sleeves separately and attach them carefully to the armholes. Attach the pleated lower flare around the 37" knee level, ensuring the pleats are evenly distributed. Finally, finish the neckline with a neat facing, hem the dress, and press every seam and pleat properly. For the finishing touch, add the small brooch/embellishment on the chest.
FRONT AND BACK VIEW
And the Royal Pleated Dress is ready! A simple straight gown transformed with beautifully structured pleats for an elegant and classy finish. Hope you will try yours, thanks for stopping by do you have a wonderful day
